Croda launches new active ingredient for sun care in line with FDA monograph

04-Oct-2011 - Last updated on 05-Oct-2011 at 12:35 GMT

In line with the FDA’s new sunscreen monograph announced earlier this year, ingredients supplier Croda has launched a new sun care ingredient aimed at providing increased formulation flexibility and broad spectrum protection.

As part of the company’s SpeXtra range, the new ingredient Solaveil XT-40W, is a titanium dioxide (TiO2) dispersion in an aqueous base, which enables incorporation into the water phase of sunscreen formulations. It is also an Ecocert approved cosmetic ingredient which can be used in natural and organic formulations

According to Croda, this allows manufacturers increased formulation flexibility and the ability to formulate light feeling and easily spreadable oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions with broad spectrum protection.

SPF and broad spectrum

“Titanium dioxide is a natural sunscreen ingredient that primarily offers UVB protection. Solaveil XT-40W however, offers both UVA and UVB protection with a critical wavelength of >380nm, allowing it to be used as the sole active ingredient,” newly appointed Croda marketing manager Jennifer Donahue told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

Donahue also stated that if a 22 percent dose of the ingredient is used in a sunscreen formulation as the only sun filter, it would give it an SPF of 25 and critical wavelength of 383nm meeting the requirements for a broad spectrum sunscreen.

According to the FDA monograph announced in June this year, the minimum required critical wavelength is 370nm and an SPF 15, for a sun care product to be classified as a broad spectrum sunscreen.

Tried and tested

Testing conducted by Croda measured absorbance curves on the raw material and in vitro SPF testing was done on multiple formulations containing the ingredient. Outside in-vivo testing was done on multiple formulations as well.

The ingredients supplier says that all Solaveil dispersions contain a patented dispersant technology and hydrophobic coating enabling it to be incorporated into the water phase of the emulsion.

The ingredient contains a grade of TiO2 designed using innovative particle synthesis techniques to give the optimum particle size and shape for UVA efficacy, while controlling particle size distribution.

The result is a material that offers much enhanced UVA attenuation, coupled with the high SPF efficacy typical of conventional TiO2 sunscreens, without excessive whitening.