Shiseido research unearths anti-ageing skin care ingredient

By Andrew McDougall

- Last updated on GMT

Research carried out by the Japanese cosmetics company has found that the continuous use of an amino acid derivative can be effective in controlling damage to the skin caused by the protein, serpin b3.

An increase in serpin b3 was found to cause an accumulation of damage in the epidermis and also negatively affect the basement membrane and dermis. Repeat occurrence of this damage can lead to ageing of the skin.

Through studying the effects of this protein, Shiseido discovered that continuous use of 1-piperidine propionic acid (1PP), in high concentrations, is effective in controlling the ageing of the skin.

To be developed in skin care products

Following this study Shiseido says it will apply the results of this research to the development of skin care products "to nurture smooth, youthful skin with firmness and elasticity."

As the result of the research on this basis, the serpin b3 inhibiting ingredient 1PP was formulated in high concentrations and was found to be very effective.

According to Shiseido, 1PP is particularly effective in inhibiting the production of serpin b3 and is also an extremely effective ingredient in rejuvenating damaged skin. It is expected to be used in anti-aging skincare products in the future.

In its latest research the Tokyo-based firm made further discoveries regarding serpin b3, finding that it is not only related to skin ageing and damage to the skin surface, but also amplifies damage to the whole epidermis, accelerating the damage process.

Serpin b3 obstructs self-defense system

To begin with, it was determined that an increase in serpin b3 in the epidermis obstructs the self-defense system, which prompts cells to eliminate themselves when they accumulate irreparable damage.

Epidermal cells with accumulated damage that havs not been eliminated produce and release various damage-inducing factors that trigger a variety of ageing-related damage.

The Shiseido research shows the level of serpin b3 rises in epidermal cells in the vicinity exposed to these damage-inducing factors, and it has been ascertained that this triggers the release of yet more damage-inducing factors, leading to a viscious circle of damage propagation.

The research showed that an increase in serpin 3 has negative effects on the whole skin, and it was discovered to be a new mechanism in the acceleration of skin aging.

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