The active, Silusyne, is a peptide that is claimed to act on a receptor involved in adipogenesis.
According to marketing manager Elena Cañadas, the ingredient acts on the process of maturation of the pre-adipocytes into adipocytes.
“By acting on the PGC-1 alpha receptor, the ingredient can help decrease the number of adipocytes,” she told CosmeticsDesign at the show.
“We measured the ingredient on how well it can decrease dermo-hypodermal junction irregularities. The fewer the number of fat cells, the fewer the irregularities,” she added.
Peptide designed with specific target in mind
The peptide is part of the company’s Aimtec range, which comprises of peptides and organic molecules that have been designed to stimulate, inhibit or compete with specific targets in the skin.
Silusyne, like others in the Aimtec range, has been selected from Lipotec’s combinatorial library, Cañadas said.
“We design the target first and then we screen the libraries, which contain lots of different combinations of peptides, for candidates,” she said.
In the case of Silusyne, it was clear the target was a peptide that decreases PGC1-alpha, she explained. Then the libraries were screened for potential candidates, which were then submitted to further testing.
The opposite to Adifyline
The ingredient’s mechanism is the opposite of another of Lipotec’s new ingredients, also launched at the in-cosmetics show, Adifyline.
Like Silusyne, Adifyline works on the PGC1-alpha receptor, this time attempting to enhance the levels of lipid accumulation.
Lipotec launched the ingredient as a plumping ingredient, and presented in vivo data at the show that it claimed illustrated its ability to increase volume in areas such as the cheeks and breasts.