Downsizing leads to gaps in skin care R&D

The situation has led to a dilemma for many cosmetics companies, who are now striving to keep up with the consumer demand for innovation, while at the same time thoroughly developing new ingredients with claims that are based on scientific fact, according to Dr. Theresa Callaghan, who runs the consultancy Callaghan International.

“The current status for claims development and testing has given rise to a number of back-lashes against products and companies, with cynical statements often appearing in the press,”​ said Dr. Callaghan.

“Balancing the needs of marketing with the realities is challenging. Cosmetic scientists have the responsibility of ensuring the information provided to marketing operations is correct and that the claims are wholly justifiable.”​

Legitimate claims are crucial to the skin care category​

In the skin care category, which is Dr. Callaghan’s area of specialisation, this trend is a particularly important factor, especially as consumers are chiefly concerned with the joint of factors of both therapeutic benefits combined with value.

All this means that good quality clinical trials are crucial for successful product development and for making the right type of claims that sit well with both consumers and regulation authorities.

“It is with certainty that even more sophisticated clinical testing design and analytical techniques will be necessary to continue to drive the evidenced-based marketing claims of the skin care industry,”​ Dr. Callaghan said.

“Those organizations best positioned to provide this support will be those that can combine product knowledge and understanding with the requirements of the fast moving skin care industry, whilst having the strengths of a pharmaceutical development approach.”​

Need for R&D outsourcing​

The situation has led to a growing need for the outsourcing of research and development expertise, which Dr. Callaghan says is driving the expansion of her consultancy.

Callaghan Consulting was established two years ago and has recently expanded to include expertise in marketing, formulation and human resources, in Rome, Brussels and Paris – three important centres for the industry in Europe.

The business is evolving around the areas of transfer strategies, examining best practice to leverage new technologies, verifying correlation of scientific data and ensuring the integrity of scientific research for new products.