ISP launches range of extracts to target hair follicles

By Katie Nichol

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags In vivo

International Specialty Products (ISP) presented its new range of hair care extracts at the in-cosmetics trade show earlier this month.

The US-based global supplier of specialty chemicals claims its Vincience BiotHAIRapy extracts work to strengthen and invigorate the hair follicle to achieve more vibrant and healthy hair.

“Ensuring that hair follicles receive optimized nutrition, that signaling is unimpaired and cellular differentiation is encouraged, are effective ways to achieve healthy looking and vibrant hair,” ​said Claude Dal Farra, vice president of R&D at ISP.

Three extracts support active growth stage

The BiotHAIRapy line comprises three extracts; Dynagen, Capauxein and Protectagen, which are derived from yeast, corn and rice respectively. The extracts support cellular activities associated with the anagen phase of the hair cycle, where follicles are in the healthy growth stage.

According to ISP, they have been shown in ex vivo​ testing to have a ‘significant impact’ on markers associated with the hair growth cycle, strand strength, follicle integrity and other aspects of hair vitality.

Although each extract is focused on a different area of hair wellness, such as nutrition, renewal or protection, they can all help to promote healthy hair, the company claims.

Targeting hair follicles for strong, healthy hair

Dynagen is designed to enhance the expression of proteins involved in the inner architecture of the hair, which the company claims may positively affect Keratin 14 and 17, which act on hair strength and structure.

In vitro ​and ex vivo​ testing carried out on the extract showed it to enhance Keratin 71 and tricholyalin which aid in the physical stability and hair strength of the follicles. Additionally, it was shown to improve the expression of collagen I, IV and CD34 which are linked to nutrition and cohesion, the company said.

Corn extract Capauxein helps to maintain the hair growth cycle and improve hair regeneration, according to ISP.

In vitro​ tests showed the ingredient to boost the expression of protein markers (including laminin-5 and fibronectin) associated with communication and cell signaling, as well as boosting markers (including P63 and Ki67) related to hair growth and follicle renewal.

The third extract Protectagen has been shown through in vitro​ and ex vivo​ studies to have an effect on markers associated with the growth cycle, (including b-catenin, and P63) according to ISP.

Additionally, the ingredient may help to protect the hair from harmful sun exposure, according to ISP, as in vitro​ trials showed maintenance of low expression of P53 markers. When damaged by UV rays, the expression of these markers tends to be ‘dramatically increased’, the company said.

Related topics Formulation & Science

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