The France-based company is showcasing Ellagi-C, derived from the bark of the African tree Anogeissus leiocarpus, at this year’s in-cosmetics show.
According to Soliance, visible signs of skin aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles are due to a decrease in collagen and elastin synthesis by fibroblasts, an increase in the activity of degradation systems and a decrease in the antioxidant protective system.
Ingredient works in three ways
Ellagi-C works in three different ways to preserve skin youthfulness, the company claims.
As well as its richness in Ellagic acid making it a potent antioxidant, the ingredient aids increased incorporation of vitamin C (a co-factor for collagen production) into fibroblasts.
In addition, in vitro tests with Ellagi-C suggest it can improve skin health by inhibiting the enzymes MMP-2 and MMP-9, known to play a role in the degradation of collagen.
In vivo test showed wrinkle depth decrease
An In vivo test of the ingredient was conducted amongst 19 subjects with an average age of 43 years.
A cream formulated with 2 percent Ellagi-C was applied to the skin twice a day for 14 days, and its effects measured against a placebo.
Ellagi-C was found to visibly and significantly decrease wrinkle depth in only 14 days, according to Soliance.
A spokesperson for the company told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com that the fact the ingredient has been shown to be effective within a shorter time period sets it apart from others on the market.
“Use of Ellagi-C led to visible results within 14 days - Most of the competitors on the market have an anti-wrinkle activity in 28 days (or more),” explained the spokesperson.
According to Soliance, the ingredient is particularly suitable for use in anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle creams, as well as eye contour and mouth contour products.
The company will be showcasing Ellagi-C along with its recently launched ingredient Stimulhyal, which it claims can help rejuvenate skin, at the in-cosmetics show in Paris.