Although the plant is well known in Traditional Chinese Medicine, head of research at Mibelle, Daniel Schmid, claims this is one of the first times the magnolia bark has been used as a cosmetics ingredient.
The ingredient, MAXnolia, contains two active substances magnolol and honokoi which inhibit inflammatory and aging processes, according to the company, helping to extend the skin’s youthful appearance.
The normal, healthy process of tissue repair leads inevitably to the production of large quantities of inflammatory factors as the body gets rid of damaged or infected tissue before repair can start.
However, if this process is left incomplete, which according to Mibelle is more likely to occur in older individuals following an increase in reactive oxygen species, chronic inflammation can occur.
During this process one of the inflammatory transcription factors, Nuclear Factor Kappa B (NF-KB), remains active instead of self-regulating its levels; and this is the target of Mibelle’s Maxnolia.
According to the company, the two active substances in the ingredient work together to inhibit the activation of NF-KB as well as having anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties.
This helps to stop the chronic inflammatory process, which is linked to the skin’s ageing process and the development of lines, wrinkles, blotchiness and reddening of the skin, the company claims.
New extraction technique
Magnolol and honokiol have low solubility in water and the company developed a proprietary technique to extract the active substances for use in a water soluble ingredient.
The company used ethanol and water to obtain an extract of the magnolia bark which was then sprayed onto a carrier of maltodextrin and liposomes. The powder that results is free from alcohol and contains pre-liposomes.
These pre-liposomes turn into liposomes immediately on contact with water and then the active ingredients are incorporated into their bi-layer membranes.
According to the company, the process has a number of advantages including the fact that the resulting ingredient is preservative free and alcohol free, with a good skin delivery due to the liposomes.