Texturising agent allows for addition of water to anhydrous formulations

Hydracire, which is a hydrophilized complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes, was presented last week at in-cosmetics in Munich.

The ingredient is designed to improve the texture and skin feel of formulations and is an improvement on simple vegetable waxes which can sometimes leave a dry after feel, claimed Gattefossé’s Laurent Schubnel.

Furthermore, using waxes for texturising can lead to instability due to their tendency to melt and recrystallise within the formulation, he said.

The hydrophilized vegetable components in Hydracire do not tend to recrystallise in the same fashion, leaving a softer after feel, he explained.

Water in anhydrous formulations ​

In addition, as the jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes have been made hydrophilic, the ingredient is compatible with both oil and water formulations.

Adding a small amount of the ingredient into formulations that would normally not contain water, such as lip balms or massage oils, allows manufacturers to add water-based ingredients, explained Schubnel.

“Just 5 per cent Hydracire allows formulators to add up to 15 per cent water or water-based actives,” ​he said.

Schubnel compared the ingredient to lanolin but said Hydracire had superior stability.

In addition to the soft after feel and the co-emulsifying properties, Gattefossé claims the ingredient works as a moisturiser and can prevent trans-epidermal water loss.

The France-based ingredients supplier released a number of ingredients at this year’s industry event, including an organic lemon extract that can replace water in formulations helping manufacturers up the organic percentage of their products.

Lemon Bio joins the other 10 original extracts and is the second, after orange, to be certified organic. According to Schubnel, they also contain fragrance components and can be used to enhance other actives within the formulation.