The Swiss company is launching the new ingredient at this year’s in-cosmetics show in Munich, Germany in the hope of capturing interest from the major skin care manufacturers.
Celligent contains three active agents: a UV absorber, an antioxidant and a nucleotide precursor to help DNA repair.
Ethyl ferulate absorbs UV rays therefore reducing their penetration into the skin, as well as having antioxidant properties, according to Rahn.
When compared to the widely used UV filter OMC, ethyl ferulate can be seen to have a similar absorption spectrum, the company claims.
The antioxidant properties of the ingredient are enhanced by the addition of carnosolic acid from extracted from Rosemary.
The third agent in the active, Uridine Monophosphate (UMP), has been added to help the DNA repair itself after UV-mediated damage.
UMP is a precursor for the nucleotides (building blocks of DNA) thymine and cytosine which can be destroyed when the DNA is hit with UV radiation. Adding the UMP provides the extra nucleotides the DNA needs to repair itself, claims the company.
The company investigated the ingredient in vitro using a 3D skin model, as well as looking at its effect on skin reddening in vivo.
Tests with the 3D skin models suggest that treatment with Celligent protects the DNA from UV damage 30 minutes after treatment; in contrast, the DNA in the untreated skin model suffered damage in the form of thymine dimers.
According to the company, in vivo tests show Celligent decreases UV mediated redness. After just one day following UV radiation the process of repair was twice as advanced as in untreated skin, it claims.
Rahn are not the first to realise the potential of naturally occurring UV absorbers and antioxidants in the fight against UV mediated skin damage.
Recent research from Spanish scientists suggests Rosemary extract, this time taken orally, could help protect against UV damage, and Brazilian scientists maintain flavanoids can be formulated with more traditional organic sunscreens to improve protection.