Sederma launches topical lip plumping ingredient

By Katie Bird

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Hyaluronic acid, Extracellular matrix

Sederma’s new lip plumping ingredient targets the increasing segmentation of the anti-ageing market.

Volulip promises to plump up lips that have lost their contour and definition with age, as well as offering younger women with naturally fine lips a route to more volume.

The ingredient contains an extract from the plant Portulaca associated with a natural modified matrikine peptide.

The matrikine peptides are not a new class of anti-ageing ingredients for Sederma, which has a range of ingredients based on these short amino acid chains.

Matrikines result from the degradation of extra cellular matrix proteins and work as cell messengers involved in wound healing and skin repair, according to the company.

Stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesise

The France-based ingredients supplier claimed the main action of the ingredients in Volulip is to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis.

This acid is a major component of the skin and is often used in cosmetic filler injections to smooth out wrinkles such as Restylane.

According to the company, in vitro​ tests suggest the new ingredient works on three levels: stimulating the production of dermal matrix molecules such as collagen 1, collagen 3 and fibronectin; reinforcing collagen 4 and laminin 5; and increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and aquaporin 3.

Sederma then performed two in vivo​ trials, the first using 29 volunteers and the second involving 21 individuals, rating the mechanical properties of the skin and the re-densification of the lips.

The company claim the results are very significant, noting a 13 per cent gain in firmness, just over 50 per cent gain in hydration and a 15 per cent increase in volume. In addition, softness and the curvature of the lower lip were also improved after treatment with the balm.

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