YSL Beauté collaborates on biocatalysis active ingredient
to develop an enzymatic production process that will enable
cosmetics players to incorporate hitherto unusable active compounds
into future products.
The development of the process could prove key in the formulation of difficult active ingredient that have, until now, proved difficult to formulate as part of specific cosmetic and toiletry products.
LibraGen, a bacterial diversity-based process and discovery specialist, designed an enzymatic synthesis process which makes it possible to use molecules that have been difficult to exploit in formulations.
The company says that the process, which makes the active ingredient more soluble, exhibits a high performance and is completely reproducible.
YSL says that the process will play a key part in the creation of a future generation of cosmetic ingredients for fragrance brands.
"It is part of our strategy to work together with experts such as LibraGen in many fields to ensure we can apply the most significant advances in our cosmetic formulations," Joëlle Guesnet, Scientific director of Groupe YSL Beauté.
In the first instance the newly developed active ingredient will be incorporated into a re-launched skin care line that is now said to have improved efficacy, thanks to the process.
The new range is claimed to combine strong conservation characteristics with a progressive natural release of the active compound in the presence of the body's natural cutaneous flora.
LibraGen is hoping that the joint development with YSL Beauté will help it to break into a new area whereby it will specialise in the development of difficult-to-formulate active ingredients.
"As the LibraGen-developed process is applicable to other active ingredients otherwise difficult to use, we plan large scale production to meet market needs in the cosmetic industry and especially for Yves Saint Laurent Parfums," said Renaud Nalin, CEO of LibraGen.
