Symrise unveils anti-irritant active ingredient
ingredient that aims to prevent itching and irritancy in a range of
cosmetics products as diverse as shampoos and skin creams.
SymCalmin relies on the replication of avenanthramides, the active constituent in oats which has long been used in cosmetic and medicinal products for its anti-irritant and anti-itch properties.
For this reason oatmeal has been an important ingredient in many cosmetic products, mainly for general skin care products, but more specifically for the treatment of certain skin conditions such as acne, eczema and dermatitis.
Symrise says that it has been researching the bioactive properties of plants and plants substances for some years now and that oats habr become a key area.
The company says that its research has demonstrated that despite avenanthramides being only a minor part of the oat, it is also one of the most efficacious parts of the grain.
Through this research, which has broken down the compound to its most basic form, Symrise says it has been able to synthesise a stable version of aventhramide, Dihydroavenanthramide D.
Further studies have also shown that Dihydroavenanthramide D is effective as a means of reducing itching and inflammation, the company says. These properties mean that it can be used for a wide range of topical applications like dry and itchy winter skin, aged skin, sensitive skin, after-sun preparation, itchy scalp and anti-dandruff shampoo.
But as well as being a choice active ingredient, the company also claims that it can be used to reduce potential irritation of actives like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), a family of ingredients derived from milk and fruit sugars that is widely used in the a variety of skin care products as a means of enhancing skin rejuvenation.
However AHA's have been linked to heightened sensitivity to sunlight and sunburn, which makes the discovery that SymCalmin can also be used as an emulsifier an important one.
Symrise says that the ingredient is a colourless and odorless liquid soluble in polyols like glycerin and glycols, ethanol and surfactants and has a recommended dose application of 0.1 to 2 per cent. Once patented the INCI of SymCalmin will be "Pentylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol and Dihydroavenanthramide D".
