Cognis focuses on well-being

Amongst the offerings a new emulsifying system that delivers good skin feel - silicon-free Triple Conditioning Concept, which combines emollients, a cationic polymer and a performance wax dispersion, and the "LS Argan program", a range of three cosmetic active ingredients derived from the argan tree.

The sensory characteristics of personal care products are becoming more and more important, and there is a strong demand for new emulsifying systems that are skin compatible while giving a high degree of control over the texture and sensorics of the formulation.

Cognis says that Emulgade Sucro has been developed to meet these requirements. Emulsions based on this new sucrose polystearate feel velvety or powdery when applied to the skin, and have a light and smooth, non-sticky afterfeel. In comparison with traditional emulsifiers, the ingredient is said to show shear thinning behavior and enhanced spreadability.

In vitro and ex vivo tests on the moisturising efficacy of Emulgade Sucro formulations proved its strong affinity with the horny layers of the epidermis providing even hydro-retentive properties, the company claims. It is an ideal ingredient for facial and body creams, including sun care products where customers are looking for cushion and a smoother afterfeel.

Increasingly cosmetic formulators are demanding consistency waxes which have the required care and emulsifying properties, yet still feel light on the skin. Care products based on traditional consistency waxes such as Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate do not always have the desired sensorial profile nor deliver skin care benefits.

In response to this challenge Cognis has launched Cutina PES as an alternative to standard consistency waxes. It builds up the necessary viscosity and stability in o/w emulsions with both ionic and non-ionic emulsifier systems, and also has a non-waxy feeling that consumers associate with care products, the company says.

The ingredient is suitable for emulsifier-free formulations based on emulsifying polymers. Due to its flexibility in terms of other ingredients, it is also compatible with a large number of skin care applications.

In recent years shampoo formulations have benefited from a combination of dispersed waxes and silicone oils in response to demands for formulations that provide greater hair manageability properties. However, due to patent restrictions, wax and silicone oil combinations are limited, creating an increasing demand for silicone-free alternatives.

In response to this Cognis Care Chemicals unveiled a silicone-free Triple Conditioning Concept at the show, which combines emollients, a cationic polymer and a performance wax dispersion. The Plantapon LC 7 is said to exhibit a surfactant that delivers the moisturising benefits of fruit derivatives and yet is far milder than traditional surfactants.

These qualities make it suitable for personal care and baby care formulations such as shampoos and body/facial washes. Because of its 100 per cent active state, it can also be used in non-aqueous formulations such as shower and bath oils.

Cognis Care Chemicals​ also presented two new products in its Primasponge range of visual capsules based on Primacare technology. It has developed a range of chitosan-based delivery systems, suitable for incorporating actives with various functions into various cosmetic formulations.

These delivery systems are produced in different sizes that range from nanometer size to millimeter size and in a variety of formats (emulsion, powder, solid in preserved water). The actives contained in the microcapsules are generally lipophilic vitamins (such as retinol, tocopherol and their derivatives), high-molecular-weight water-soluble molecules (such as proteins), or botanical extracts, all of which benefit from increased stability as a result of being encapsulated.

The show was also used to launch the latest product in the company's Primasponge range of visual capsules, White Tea and Bamboo Peeling Primasponge, which combines the antioxidant benefits of white tea polyphenols with the exfoliating performance of bamboo.