Stabilised Vitamin C takes on wrinkle care market

Related tags Cosmetics

Japanese company Showa Denko K.K. has developed a new type of
stabilised vitamin C, which is claimed to be the first effective
wrinkle treatment of its kind. The company will start selling the
product in January 2005 as an additive to cosmetics under the trade
name Apprecier. Simon Pitman reports.

The ingredient, which has been developed using a sodium ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate solution based on vitamin C, is said to provide oxidization properties that can promote the synthesis of collagen and visibly reduce the effects of facial wrinkles.

It has been scientifically proven that wrinkles form because collagenase and active oxygen, generated deep in the skin by ultraviolet and other irritants, decompose dermal collagen and elastic fibers, leading to the loss of skin elasticity.

Although the oxidization properties of vitamin C have been known for some time, the problem with using it as a treatment for wrinkles is that vitamin C easily decomposes with heat or in water, giving it limited applications as an additive to cosmetics.

To address this problem, SDK had already developed ascorbyl 2-phosphate magnesium salt (APM), a stabilised vitamin C having resistance to heat and water. This product has been sold since 1985 as an additive to cosmetics that impedes the formation of melanin.

The advancement for the newly developed Apprecier is that is has higher skin permeability bought about through lipophilic property. This means that the active vitamin C ingredient is effectively delivered into derma, resulting in removal of wrinkle-causing activated oxygen. It also facilitates synthesis of collagen that maintains skin elasticity while restricting decomposition of collagen.

SDK says that the amount of vitamin C in derma substantially increases when Apprecier is applied instead of APM.

According to the company's test results, the application of Apprecier to the skin effectively restricted the formation of wrinkles and brightened the skin.

SDK​ says it has received many inquiries about the product after its effect was reported at a number of academic society meetings this year. New cosmetic products containing Apprecier will be placed on the global cosmetics market next year, following interest from a number of major international cosmetic companies.

In the medium-term the company's consolidated business plan will promote its personal care product operation as one of its "strategic growth businesses." SDK will continue to launch innovative products in this area, aiming to achieve JPY5 billion (€365m) annual sales by 2010.

Related topics Formulation & Science Skin Care

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