Late last year, DSM and Metabolic Explorer (Metex) kickstarted work under the joint venture ‘Metex Noovista’ to upscale and commercialise Metex’s alternative cosmetic-grade PDO ingredient. Metex was using industrial fermentation to develop the PDO from non-GMO feedstocks.
At the time, Metex said the partnership with DSM confirmed the “strong demand” for bio-based alternatives to petrochemical products in the cosmetics space.
Gareth Barker, president of DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients, agreed: “The product is bio-sourced and the process is fully sustainable, which contributes to DSM’s ambition to fulfil the consumer demand for conscious beauty.”
Biotechnology was spotlighted last year by DSM as an important and growing space in beauty and an area that could future-proof industry, providing consumer perceptions could be positively influenced.
Microbiome-friendly increasingly important
In addition to holding sustainable appeal, DSM said the PDO – which could be used as a sensory enhancer, solvent or humectant and had a proven preservative boosting effect – was also now certified ‘microbiome-friendly’ by MyMicrobiome.
Bruno Trinquart, head of global marketing for technical and performance ingredients at DSM Personal Care & Aroma, said this aligned well with “a growing market need” for microbiome-friendly products.
DSM said use of cosmetics had been shown to alter the microbial composition and dynamics of the skin, with an imbalanced skin microbiome leading to conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), dry skin and dandruff. So, minimising the negative impact cosmetic products exerted on the skin was therefore important, it said.
The microbiome was an increasingly “strategic area” for DSM. In February, this year, the company signed a probiotic tech agreement with Belgian life sciences start-up S-Biomedic – a deal that would see DSM gain exclusive global manufacturing and commercialisation rights on the final S-Biomedic active ingredient, set to hit the market in the next two years.
Skin Microbiome webinar
CosmeticsDesign is running a free-to-attend online Skin Microbiome webinar this month – bringing together an esteemed panel of experts, including from L’Oréal Research & Innovation, Gallinée and Cosmetics Europe.
The webinar will discuss scientific, regulatory and trend updates on this burgeoning category. A not-to-miss event for any industry professional operating in the microbiome space.
Register now and find out more about the upcoming event on our dedicated information page.