Papilactyl D is the latest in a raft of active ingredients for anti-ageing products that the France-based company has developed in recent months. Importance of papillary dermis in ageing Silab hit the laboratory to formulate the new ingredient on the back of research showing the key role of the papillary dermis in maintaining the elastic properties of the skin. To help formulators of anti-ageing take advantage of this discovery, Silab developed Papilactyl D, which the company claims strengthens the structure of the papillary dermis. Rich in oligosaccharides derived from the tiger nut, the ingredient increases the deformability, elasticity and strength of the skin, according to Silab. More specifically the company claims the ingredient preserves the functionality of the oxytalan microfibril network and stimulates the expression of functional collagens XVI and XII. As well as targeting these collagens, which are specific to the papillary dermis, the company claims Papilactyl D normalizes the expression of matrix collagens I and VI. Test results for Papilactyl D Silab has conducted both in vivo and in vitro testing on the ingredient to illustrate its efficacy in relation to these specific claims and its overall effect on the appearance of the skin. Cutting directly to the anti-wrinkle impact of the ingredient, Silab said Papilactyl D reduced the number of wrinkles by 25 per cent, the total wrinkled surface by 40 per cent and the total length of wrinkles by 30 per cent. These figures are based on data from a survey of 20 female volunteers who used Papilactyl D formulated at 4 per cent twice daily for 56 days. Suitable for all anti-ageing products, Papilactyl D follows several anti-ageing ingredient launches from Silab in recent times. In January Silab released an ingredient to tackle the appearance of bags under the eyes a month after launching an ingredient for the male market that it claims accelerates skin cell renewal and boosts cell metabolism.