Effective cosmeceutical ingredients identified in study
the tell-tale signs of skin aging may be tackled by specific
chemicals that work like prescription drugs.
Published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, the analysis looked at several cosmeceutical ingredients to see how successful they are in targeting specific skin imperfections related to age. The research indicated that skin surface irregularity can be improved through the topical application of niacin, while the appearance of fine lines can be diminished through the application of moisturizers containing engineered peptides and over-the-counter retinoids. Researcher Zoe Diana Draelos, from Dermatology Consulting Services Skin in North Carolina, said abnormal pigmentation, which is often connected to age, can be improved with the use of photo-protective ingredients Furthermore, she said combining cosmeceutical ingredients in a moisturizing agent can magnify benefits and improve skin appearance. "Evidence-based cosmeceutical ingredients can provide anti-aging benefits," said Draelos. "This new generation of cosmeceuticals can provide valuable skin benefits." Cosmeceuticals have been criticized for being little more than glorified cosmetics that use doctors as marketing tools rather than formulation specialists. Regulation of cosmeceuticals is another hot topic as the boundary between drugs and cosmetics becomes increasingly unclear. Unlike cosmetics, drugs are reviewed and approved by the FDA before reaching the market, making the question of definition highly significant. Current FDA policy distinguishes between drugs and cosmetics on the basis of their intended use but there have been calls for a stricter approach as this makes formulation almost irrelevant.