Unitis updates on botanical risks

The European organisation of cosmetic ingredients, industries and services, Unitis, has released further information regarding its research into potential carcinogens, mutagenics and the effects of toxic substances on reproduction relating to botanical substances.

The report, which aims to put straight misunderstanding and interpretations in this area, highlights 27 substances within the botanicals framework that are 'possible intrinsic hazards'.

Unitis says that because of European regulations all botanical ingredients used in cosmetic products have had to be studied for the presence of some 800 CMR and dangerous substances.

Led by European experts, the study also includes information about possible precursors as well as substances that can be found in living plants only. On the other hand it also stresses that the dried plants more commonly used in cosmetics manufacturing can have completely different compositions.

Depending also upon the concentration and level of exposure, the possible danger of a part of a living plant does not automatically imply a risk when an extract of this plant is used in a cosmetic formulation.

The updated information shows that only seven of the substances - acrylonitrile, furan, glyoxal, isoprene, phenol, pyrogallol and safrole - are part of the CMR substances classified as such in the relevant European directive.

The Unitis update also stated that, "depending upon the concentration and level of exposure, the possible danger of a part of a living plant does not automatically imply a risk when an extract of this plant is used in a cosmetic formulation".

The study relates to the 7th amendment of the European Directive on Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or toxic to Reproduction (CMR) substances. Unitis says that because of this requirement all botanical ingredients used in cosmetic products have had to be tested for the presence of some 800 CMR substances.

Unitis adds that this charge is extremely difficult for botanical ingredients manufacturers and marketers to implement, which is why the organisation was charged with this responsibility.

In the meantime work on the project will be extended to further botanicals and deeper scientific analysis. This means that more information will be available in the future, although the organization says it unable to specify exactly when.