The global specialty chemicals company used last week's show as a platform to launch a number of new actives for the cosmetics and personal care industry under its business unit Vincience Actives.
Two of the ingredients are naturally derived actives and are part of the company's Botanicals range whilst the third is a synthetic biopeptide.
Pea extract to enhance tan
The company is not new to tanning enhancer's. According to ISP spokesperson Anne-Francoise Clay, it was one of the first to release such an ingredient onto the market.
This new release is a green pea extract called Heliostatine IS and is designed to promote a healthy glow and radiant complexion by increasing melanin synthesis in the skin.
However, the extract works to maintain a healthy glow rather than causing an individual to tan without sun exposure and is more effective if applied after UVB exposure, explained Clay.
The company's in-vivo tests illustrate the upregulating effect of the compound on the melanin index over a period of 28 days, showing an increase after approximately three days that is maintained for as long as the product is applied.
Furthermore, ISP claims the ingredient enhances skin feel by inhibiting interleukin 1ß, a cytokine thought to play a key role in the inflammatory response.
Moisturizing rice
The second of the new releases is Aquarize IS - a rice-based moisturizing extract for the long and short term hydration of the skin.
A clinical study of the ingredient was performed to evaluate the short term and long term moisturizing properties of the ingredient, and the company reports a 40 percent decrease in trans-epidermal water loss after 28 days.
In addition, the sugars in the rice extract activate the synthesis of both collagen I and collagen III explained Clay, and the company suggests the ingredient be used in anti-aging formulations.
Anti-aging peptide
The final ingredient presented at the show was a synthetic heptapeptide designed to mimic the action of laminin-5, a molecule present in the basement membranes of the skin.
Laminixyl IS promotes the synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen I and III and fibronectin, according to the company.
In addition, ex-vivo tests illustrated an increase in keratin synthesis - a protein that is involved in the barrier function of the skin - said Clay.
Although all of the ingredients are being launched globally, company spokesperson Anne-Francoise Clay noted that some of the ingredients may not have global appeal, citing as an example the tanning enhancer that will not be directed at Asian markets.