Switzerland-based ingredients supplier Mibelle has looked to the East for its new ingredient for sensitive skin.
EpiCalmin TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) has been designed to soothe irritated skin, reinforce the skin’s natural defence system and help prevent ageing.
The ingredient is the result of discussions between the company and a Western doctor with experience in traditional Chinese medicine, explained Mibelle’s Dr Daniel Schmitt.
“There is not a lot of literature available in English on this topic and it is very difficult to get access to information and recipes. This is why we collaborated with a western doctor with experience in Chinese medicine,” he said.
Although the combination of the Japanese honeysuckle, Siberian cocklebur and purple nutsedge that make up the ingredient is well known in the Chinese tradition, this is the first time their efficacy has been scientifically demonstrated, he added.
An in vivo test performed by the company on 20 volunteers suggests that EpiCalmin TCM may help soothe skin after irritation and reinforce the skin’s protection against barrier challenges.
The forearm skin of volunteers was irritated by an anionic surfactant-containing patch that was left in contact with the skin for 24 hours. Treatment for 9 days with the EpiCalmin formulation led to higher levels of skin hydration compared to the placebo cream or the control, according to the company.
Mibelle also performed in vitro DNA microarray in order to investigate what effect the active had on gene expression levels.
According to the company, the majority of the upregulated genes help protect against free radicals and oxidative stress. Most of the downregulated genes were matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) which are responsible for degrading the extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin.
Although these results suggest the ingredient may have significant potential as an anti-ageing active, the focus on sensitive skin will remain, at least until in vivo tests have confirmed anti-ageing benefits, explained Dr Schmitt.