Cosmetics Design caught up with Ewa Hudson afterwards to talk performance, trends, and regulation versus science in the area of nutricosmetics.
Commenting on what she feels industry professionals will have taken from the talk, Ewa says; “I think it is important for industry professionals to understand how to create future demand in this area - how to ultimately attract a loyal consumer group for their product.”
In terms of global performance sales from 2006 – 2010, Ewa says Asia Pacific led the way with Japan and China developing the most modern of products.
Beauty supplements were said to have accounted for 19 per cent of Japanese dietary supplements sales with beauty food and drinks reaching retail value sales of US$777 (€618) million.
In Europe, Germany was the fastest in terms of growth, following close behind by Italy and the Netherlands.
According to the Euromonitor expert, France is also doing well in this sector as “generic vitamins and dietary supplements are sold throughout the majority of health food stores there, helping to create a larger acceptance of those products and encouraging customers to reach for them.”
The head of wellness and health research notes three distinct areas of trend within the baby, teenage and growing with age sectors.
“There has been a growing science behind prebiotics and childhood eczema for the baby sector in recent years – we could say it’s one of the first ingestible products that helps with skin conditions. Danone has done studies into this area already, linking prebiotics and immunity and achieved quite significant reductions with eczema,” says Ewa.
Secondly, she points out that teenagers are another strong consumer group that reach for the beauty from within product; “we see that hair status, nails and acne is a priority in this sector – so companies need to bear in mind that the product would need to be affordable.”
Lastly she points out that anti-cellulite, tanning and anti-wrinkle products boasting strong wrinkle reduction claims, like Dove spa from Unilever are standing out in the growing with age category.
In terms of brand loyalty, Hudson says; “It’s often in products that show some benefits within a certain time, like an ingredient that will improve the strength of the nail within weeks, the consumer will more than likely go back to get it again.”
Regulation vs. science
On this matter, the expert reveals that in Europe there is still an issue with clarity, as ingredients are required to pass EFSA guidelines and there have been health claim issues.
“We know what has been approved by EFSA - traditional vitamins and minerals like vitamin B7, Zinc, Vitamin C and Beta-carotene.”
Approved ingredients like this she says, offers an opportunity for small companies or domestic players who do not have the resources to invest in science to go on the back of generic approved claims when launching a product onto the market.