Cotton thistle extract can help repair and restructure damaged skin, according to French ingredients supplier Gattefossé.
The ingredient, Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio, is designed for use in anti-ageing products and sun burn treatments, as well as products designed to help skin damaged by cosmetic treatments such as dermabrasion and peels.
Such treatments are growing in popularity as are products that have been designed specifically for use alongside the therapies, and the market holds significant potential for ingredients suppliers.
In addition, Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio is Ecocert certified organic which will help the company attract the increasing number of manufacturers hunting for new organic actives.
The ingredient is produced via a hydro-alcoholic extraction from cotton thistles (Onopordum acanthium) which the company claims are wild harvested just before the flowering time in June.
Restructure and repair
Both ex-vivo and in-vivo studies have been performed by the company in an attempt to illustrate the ability of the ingredient to restructure and repair the epidermal barrier.
The first of the ex-vivo studies looked at keratinocyte differentiation through the levels of markers Loricin, Involucrin and LEKTI. These proteins are produced in the final stages of epidermal differentiation and their expression can be used to indicate the healthy development of the epidermis.
According to the company, Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio stimulates keratinocyte differentiation in human skin explants that have been artificially damaged.
Furthermore, the company tested the ingredient on skin explants damaged by UVB radiation and found it can stimulate the process of cutaneous repair.
Finally the company tested the ingredient in vivo on skin that had been damaged by tape stripping and measured how the skin recovered its barrier function.
The company claim that using the ingredient on a daily basis helps prevents water loss, as measured using the trans epidermal water loss test, indicating epidermal repair after the physical damage.
Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio joins 7 other actives in the Gatuline line, including Gatuline RC Bio, an organic extract from beech tree buds and the recently released Gatuline In-Tense, rapid reaction anti-wrinkle ingredient based on an extract from the flower buds of the South African Paracress plant.