Epidermal stem cells are different form other skin cells in that they can mature into different cell types – in other words they are undifferentiated. This allows them to play a key role in tissue repair after wounding and help maintain normal tissue homeostasis, ISP claims.
However, as the body ages, the number of skin stem cells gets smaller, and changes to the environment surrounding the stem cells start to disturb their functioning.
ISP’s new ingredient, Survixyl IS, has been designed to help protect the environment of the skin stem cells, maintain epidermal homeostasis and protect cells from stress, by protecting what the company calls the Stemness Recovery Complex.
The Stemness Recovery Complex is a concept trademarked by ISP which includes five key factors that are critical to preserve the environment of epidermal stem cells including factors such as keratin 15, beta 1 integrin and p63.
Stemness Recovery Complex
ISP first investigated the ingredient’s ability to protect the Stemness Recovery Complex with in vitro testing, before investigating if the ingredient could help protect the skin from stresses such as UV damage.
According to the company, the addition of Survixyl IS at between 0.5 and 1.5 per cent may help increase each of the five markers included in the Stemness Recovery Complex.
The company went on to perform a number of in vivo tests in order evaluate the effect of Survixyl IS on preserving epidermal cells from UV stress.
Ten volunteers applied a cosmetic formulation containing Survixyl IS at 1 per cent, twice a day on the thigh, prior to UV exposure, and according to the company there was a significant decrease in sunburn cells observed in the treated skin compared to the non treated.
This result, taken with the other in vitro tests that explored its effect on the protection of DNA from UV-mediated damage, suggest that Survixyl IS may help preserve epidermal cells from UV damage, the company concluded.
According to ISP, the cosmetic applications for the ingredient include anti-ageing formulations top optimize epidermal self rejuvenation, formulations to prevent premature skin ageing, and other formulations designed specifically to protect the epidermal stem cells.