Researcher uses ‘green chemistry’ to quantify components in cosmetics

By Andrew MCDOUGALL

- Last updated on GMT

Josu López developed the methods as part of his PhD thesis
Josu López developed the methods as part of his PhD thesis

Related tags Perfume

A Spanish researcher has developed three ‘green’ analytical methods to simultaneously analyse various components used in cosmetics products such as sunscreens, perfumes and shampoos, all in the name of consumer safety.

Josu López from the UPV/EHU-University of the Basque Country developed the methods as part of his PhD thesis, using few solvents and claims that very little residue is produced in comparison with other analytical techniques.

López developed and applied methods to quantify some of the components used to make cosmetics based on capillary electrophoresis.

“One of the most important advantages of this technique is that it is a ‘green’ technique because little organic solvent is used and little residue is produced in comparison with other analytical techniques,”​ he says.

López has worked on methods to analyse musk fragrances, allergens, antimicrobial preservatives, antioxidant preservatives and ultraviolet filters, and has applied them in the analysis of various perfumes, shampoos, gels, soaps, sun creams and a range of domestic products.

Why is this important?

Regulation 1223/2009 approved by the European Union in 2009 established a list of components that guarantee consumer safety as well as certain conditions for using these components, such as maximum concentration and what type of products they can be used in.

At present there are over 10,000 components that can be used to make cosmetics; so it is essential to monitor these components to guarantee consumer safety.

López points out that "all the products we analysed comply with the regulation".

Methods

He also claims that his methods, published in the journal Electrophoresis​, are ‘cheap, simple, green methods’, explaining that it is very easy to prepare the samples to be used in the methods as the product only needs to be diluted

One of the advances is that the simultaneous separation of various components has been achieved using capillary electrophoresis, for example it is possible to simultaneously separate fragrances and allergens, or preservatives and ultraviolet filters, etc.

The researcher highlighted the importance of the optimisation process of the methods obtained.

"We have developed a function to simplify the optimisation of the most significant variables that have a bearing on the methods,"​ he explains.

The next step will now be to try and simultaneously analyse a larger quantity of components, and to try and reduce the minimum concentration for detection purposes in the methods.

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