Stimulating the growth of the epidermal lipids helps Reforcyl regenerate mature skin, the Switzerland-based company claims.
Aged skin is characterised by a perturbed skin barrier and a slow down of the regeneration functions of the skin, Rahn claims, and its new active has been designed to help counter this.
Epidermal lipid synthesis
According to the company, the extract can help activate key enzymes involved in epidermal lipid synthesis and the liver X receptor, a regulator of cholesterol, fatty acid and glucose homeostasis.
In vivo tests using the ingredient suggested that skin hydration, firmness, elasticity and smoothness can all be improved, as well as the visible improvement of wrinkle depth when the ingredient is applied around the eye area.
Reforcyl contains two plant extracts, one from Gynostemma pentaphyllum native to China and the other from the Mediterranean plant Cistus incanus, as well as the amino acid glutamine.
Gynostemma pentaphyllum contains gynosaponins that resemble the saponins found in ginseng root, and Rahn claims that like ginseng it is well know of its energy giving properties.
According to the company, this extract has an activating effect on the liver X receptor (LXR), which can in turn strengthen the skin barrier.
“Gynostemma Pentaphyllum activates LXR eventually leading to the activation of Acetyl CoA Synthetas, Glucosyl Ceramide Transferase and Fatty Acid Synthase, which are all key enzymes for epidermal lipid (i.e. cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides) synthesis,” Rahn’s manager for the development of cosmetic actives Stefan Bänziger explained to CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
The extract of Cistus incanus is used for its antioxidative powers, according to the company, and the amino acid included as it can help supply the energy needed to stimulate the metabolic processes needed.
Rahn was also keen to point out the active has been Ecocert-certified as natural.
In vivo tests
In vivo tests were carried out on 20 female volunteers between the ages of 56 and 77, who applied a roll on to the inner arm containing Reforcyl at concentrations between 1 and 5 per cent.
According to the company, at 5 per cent Reforcyl improved skin hydration by 32 per cent after 28 days, improving skin firmness by 14 per cent and skin elasticity by 9.2 per cent.
A gel containing 3 per cent Reforcyl was also applied to the eye area of the 20 volunteers twice daily. Rahn claims that a positive effect was found in 95 per cent of the study participants after 28 days and the ingredient decreased wrinkle depth by 14.1 per cent.