A new emollient ester from ingredients supplier Croda can help formulators replace cyclomethicone D5, as regulations surrounding the ingredient tighten.
According to the company, Crodamol SFX is a multifunctional replacement for the volatile silicone which is being questioned by Canadian regulations due to its potential effects on the environment.
"D5 replacement has become popular since Canada passed legislation relating to the bioaccumulation of volatile silicones," explained Suellen Bennett, marketing manager for the company.
"Even if customers are not trying to replace it in their formulations now, they are looking for potential alternative for the future," she said.
In addition to providing the silky, dry skin feel that can be achieved with silicones, Crodamol SFX has a number of other properties that Croda believes will be of interest to formulators of color cosmetics, sun care and hair care products.
Croda first developed the ingredient as a solvent for the organic sun filter avobenzone, Bennett explained, before investigating its other properties.
The company found that as well as working well with certain sun filters, the ester can also help disperse pigments in color cosmetic products which, combined with the improved skin feel it can lend to a product, makes it a good candidate for use in tinted moisturizers and foundations.
Hair care formulations can also benefit from the ingredient, according to Croda, as Crodamol SFX can help improve hair shine.
"The ingredient has unique light bending properties - the refractive index is the same as glass - which brings shine to the hair," Bennett explained. In addition, it can help align the hair fiber and reduce the cuticle angle, which further improves hair shine, she added.
Furthermore, the ingredient can be added to antiperspirant products to help reduce whiteness, and to lanolin or petrolatum to reduce the tackiness of these common ingredients, Croda claims.
Although more expensive than the cyclomethicone D5 that it can replace - the ingredient is about three times the price - Bennett explained that its multifunctional nature can mean other costly ingredients are no longer needed in the formulation.
Its biodegradable nature is also expected to be of interest to formulators, as both regulation and consumers are increasingly looking at a product’s environmental effect.