Merck claims its new cyclical anti-ageing peptide is a world first

Crucial to the design of this active formulation is its cyclic effect, which means it is capable of reactivating the impaired repair process of mature skin that leads to signs of ageing, in turn helping to stimulate natural regeneration.

According to Germany-based Merck, the focus for the development of the formulation was the effect that peptides have as endogenous (produced or growing within an organism) protein building blocks to help regenerate skin cells.

Endogenous effect of peptide​

Most commonly this effect can be seen in the wound healing process, when these endogenous blocks regenerate in the form of short polymers, which plays a crucial part of the skin renewal process.

This mechanism has been captured in the Clycopeptide-5 as a ‘tailor-made’ active ingredient for use in a wide variety of anti-ageing formulations, including creams and lotions.

The peptide formulation developed by Merck serves to biologically mimic the natural regeneration processes that are lost in mature skins, helping to produce a smoother signal transmission between the cells and their environment, the company claims.

Cyclic molecular structure​

The active ingredient works by triggering certain skin cell receptors, thereby stimulating skin cell renewal by means of a cyclic molecular structure that ensures optimum stability and efficacy for the process.

Ultimately Merck claims that the effect the peptide ingredient has on the skin is that the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are reduced after ‘brief use’, leaving the skin significantly more supple, elastic and firm.

Cyclopeptide-5 is claimed to be the first ever cyclic developed peptide ingredient and the company says that its effects on the skin have been confirmed by user studies demonstrating positive effects after short application times.

The controlling effect of peptides​

Peptides are amino acid chains that signal for or modulate the majority of natural processes within the body.

As peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, melanogenesis (the creation of melanin) and protein synthesis, synthetic analogs of these molecules can have wide ranging effects.

In the personal care segments peptide ingredients such as the Cyclopeptide-5 are most commonly modelled on the wound repair signalling sequences which may have rejuvenating, anti-ageing effects, and peptides of the innate immune system that may help in acne treatment by neutralising bacterial debris.