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Lipotec’s ingredient marries moisturisation with exfoliation

By Katie Bird , 14-Jan-2009
Last updated on 14-Jan-2009 at 13:49 GMT2009-01-14T13:49:34Z

Lipotec’s new ingredient uses an enzyme present in papaya to help exfoliate and moisturise.

Peelmoist is the new offering from the Spanish-based ingredients provider and promises to help prevent rough and dry skin.

Enzyme with exfoliating properties

The ingredient contains papain, an enzyme that helps to accelerate desquamation (the shedding of skin cells).

The papain reacts with the protein connections between the corneocytes, the cells in the top layer of the skin that play an important role in barrier function, helping to break them apart and speed up the shedding process, explained Lipotec’s chief scientific officer for development Juan Cebrian.

Shedding the corneocytes is an important part of skin renewal and renovation and ineffective desquamation can lead to the build up of dry scaly plaques.

Moisturising factors added

However, this process is inextricably linked to skin moisture levels, according to Lipotec, hence why Peelmoist also contains moisturising elements.

The product contains a number of moisturising ingredients that are already present in the skin and make up what is known as the Natural Moisturizing Factor.

Amino acids, lactic acid, urea and salts help the skin to retain water and adding a number of these factors to Peelmoist will help it to hydrate the skin after the papain has exfoliated, according to the company.

This double action allows the ingredient to straddle two categories.

“It can be considered an anti-ageing product as it improves desquamation, however it is also a moisturising ingredient,” Cebrian told CosmeticsDesign.com.

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