Germany-based Goldschmidt Personal Care, a division of the Degussa specialty chemicals business, is launching TEG Care CE 40, a new, vegetable-based cationic emulsifier system for the formulation of oil dispersed in water creams and lotions.
Moisturisation is playing an increasingly important part in new skin care formulations, but blending increasingly complex moisturising ingredients means that formulators are increasingly looking for high performance emulsifiers to do the job.
The new Goldschmidt ingredient is a blend of a powerful emulsifier (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) and a stabilizer (Cetearyl Alcohol), which all forms a flakeflake. Like other cationics, it has a strong impact on the after-feel of emulsion preparations by providing a very smooth, powdery-skin feel.
This company says that the sensory profile is beneficial to formulators using high lipophilic content formulations to meet market demands for intensive moisturisation.
The ingredient is said to be well matched to mask the often unpleasant, greasy or heavy feel of the high oil content required in intensive moisturisers, while providing excellent emulsification properties.
Sun care products should also benefit from the water resistance of cationic emulsifiers, the company claims. Formulations blended with TEC Care CE 40 have been shown to tolerate the necessary loadings of UV filters as well as other active ingredients and extracts, such as Lactil ,Ceramides, or vitamins without sacrificing efficacy.
The ingredient has also been designed with flexibility in mind, which means that it can be used as a primary emulsifier or simply as a co-emulsifier to alter a formulation's sensory profile. Even when used as an additive, cationic emulsions lend a characteristic powdery-skin feel that nonionic and anionic emulsions do not.
Primary applications for this technology include facial, hand and body, baby and foot care, sunscreens, and other systems where a non-oily, high lipophilic system is an advantage.