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Bulb extract combats anti-ageing and unwanted hair growth

By Louise Prance , 13-Feb-2007

Symrise has found that its innovative IBR Dormin Narcissus bulb extract is not only award winning in the anti-ageing market – but could impact the hair care segment through its ability to slow down undesired hair growth.

IBR Dormin, invented and manufactured by IBR and distributed by worldwide fragrance and cosmetic manufacturer Symrise, is a narcissus bulb extract said to decrease hair growth by slowing down cell proliferation. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, VP business and marketing of IBR, told CosmeticsDesign , "As plants in dormancy are not growing they are restoring their youth, energy and beauty for the next growth season – with the dormin extract having the same effect on human skin, therefore targeting the anti-ageing market". "However, Symrise research verified that the same reversible cell proliferation inhibitors extracted from dormant plants and plant organs in their dormant stage also prompt effects such as the reversal of unwanted hair growth" she continued. she continued. Following in-depth research Symrise found that even at a low concentration there was a significant dose dependent reduction of shaft hair elongation when IBR Dormin was applied – a discovery that could be significant for sufferers of hirsutism, the over-growth of hair. However, the most innovatve effect of the active is its ability to naturally induce the hair into the catagen stage of the hair cycle – the period where the old hair ceases to grow and gets ready to shed while a new hair is formed. The overall catagen process takes time and creates another way to further halt the growth process of hair on the human body. IBR Dormin is being created for topical use and is able to be used all over the body, specifically targeting men for after shaving problems, and hair removal from legs and body parts for women. The bulb extract last year won the BSB European Innovation prize for its ability to create youthful looking skin, vindicating claims that the product is 'a new approach to anti-ageing products'. The award, in the "naturals" category of the BSB European Innovation prize for cosmetics and chemistry 2006, was presented in Wurzburg in October last year, and is yet more recognition for IBR's products following last year's award for the colourless carotenoid product, IBR-CLC, in the most innovative raw materials-actives sections. Research has proved that these properties can be extracted from the bulbs and used in skin care formulations to slow the rate of cell division, giving them more time to develop their protective functions. This is said to make IBR-Dormin suitable for a host of anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and after-sun products and can even be rendered to act as a whitening agent through another mechanism – a function that will make it suitable for skin whitening products.

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