Science is always exploring new ways to stem the tide of visible ageing, and the industry is always open to developing the next generation of alternative ingredients, which has led industry experts to explore the properties of bio-fractions of pea, rice-bran and yeast.
Anna Gripp, senior director, Global Marketing at ISP, recently presented her findings on incorporating these bio-fractions and their effects on the skin at this summer’s HBA Expo.
Gripp said that according to ex-vivo studies, yeast bio-fractions have shown to induce skin-brightening just 48 hours after treatment.
Kojic acid was used as the benchmark during the study, but Gripp explained that the yeast outperformed it, proving to be more effective in brightening the skin.
The ideal use for such an ingredient would be in brightening, anti-ageing and hand care products, according to the ISP professional.
Pea and rice bio-fractions for sun and skin care
When testing the pea bio-fraction, ISP found that it promotes hydration by targeting the moisturising processes in skin, helping preserve skin from dehydration and aiding both short and long term moisturisation.
The rice-bran bio-fraction went through in vitro tests which showed the ingredient increased adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production as well as slowing down methylglyoxal (MGO) cell death, which was proven to decrease UV-induced lesions on DNA in skin after UV stress.
As well as use in various skin care products, both the rice and pea bio-fractions are aimed for use in sun care and colour cosmetics also.
Lucuma seed and trans-resveratrol
Dr Leonel Rojo from Rutgers University also gave a presentation on how the lucuma seed extract, which comes from Incan Golden Fruit found most commonly in Peru and Chile, had outperformed other ingredients in clinical studies, when tested for anti-ageing properties.
Rojo explained that the anti-ageing benefits produced by the Pouteria Lucuma extract includes inducing the expression of elastin, promotion of fibroblast migration and increasing vascular recovery.
The final presentation was given by DSM Nutritional Products manager of Open Innovation and External Business Development, looking at trans-resveratrol and its de-pigmenting properties.
Dr Juana Flores explained that this is a powerful antioxidant that possesses the same skin brightening properties as red grapes and red wine.
Trans-resveratrol has been shown to reduce melanin synthesis in human melanocytes and according to Flores, can be used in a range of anti-ageing products.