France-based Bayer Santé Familiale has unveiled new research into its Heterosides ingredient that emphasises increased skin barrier and anti-inflammatory properties.
The company says the ingredient is naturally derived from centella asiatica, a herbaceous plant from the Mackinlayaceaea family that is native to India, southern Asia and Australasia.
The plant’s extracts are commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine as a mild antibacterial, antiviral and anti-inflammatory, and has been documented for use in wound healing treatments, as well as a wide variety of skin care formulations.
Trials focus on stimulation of Ceramides 2
Bayer’s development team created the ingredient by using a quantitative chemical analysis method known as titration in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside – two different compounds that are extracted from the plant.
The development team then conducted trials using the ingredient that concerned the stimulation of Ceramides 2 content in human keratinocytes.
The stimulating action of Ceramides is believed to have an effect on the stratum corneum formation and the cornification process, which is said to positively impact the physical barrier and skin permeability.
Increased skin barrier protection
The increased protection this provides to the skin barrier is said to provide more protection to the skin, in turn preventing inflammation and providing greater defense against skin sensitivity or related reactions.
Further to this, the researchers point out that the ingredient leads to tighter junctions reinforcement for skin barrier function, involucrin reinforcement for normalisation keratinocyte differentiation and activation of the deeper layers of the epidermis.
Bayer will be demonstrating the efficacy of the ingredient at the forthcoming Cosmetagora show, which will be held in Paris from 15th to 16th of January. The company can be found at booth 78.